Login to forums:

Forgot your password?

Forgot your username?

User Tag List

Page 26 of 26 FirstFirst ... 1623242526
Results 626 to 637 of 637

Thread: VW Cabriolet Project for the wifey

  1. #626
    Sr. User juicedz4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    near Rochester
    Posts
    2,093
    Mentioned
    7 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Trunk lid blocked out with 400 dry. Pretty happy with how it turned out.











    Stripped the drivers fender of its many layers of paint. Its super straight and zero rust. Ready to prime tomorrow.







    Dan

  2. #627
    Sr. User maxwell's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    2,062
    Mentioned
    40 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Damn dude. Loving the updates. Looks like (IG) the other fender ain't that bad, either.
    MAXWELL
    BLAOWW!!

  3. #628
    Sr. User juicedz4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    near Rochester
    Posts
    2,093
    Mentioned
    7 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by maxwell View Post
    Damn dude. Loving the updates. Looks like (IG) the other fender ain't that bad, either.
    Its a lot worse since I tried to hammer it out. Ended up with 3-4 holes from the weld on dent pull studs and hidden rust. Its a mess.

    Im likely going to section that area out and weld in a new formed piece. At least thats my current plan, hah.

    Dan

  4. #629
    Sr. User juicedz4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    near Rochester
    Posts
    2,093
    Mentioned
    7 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Epoxy and 2k primed the fender last saturday. Turned out nice. I havent blocked it out yet, but it should be close, maybe just a little glaze around the area where I shaved the marker lights.








    Then it was back to the trunk. The inside has just as much bad paint as the outside, along with a few dents. Spent forever stripping the inside and repairing the dents in prep for primers.














    Sanded it out. Ready for the last coat of primer.





    Just had to toss it on quick to see how it looks. Diggin it.







    I was tired of sanding so last night I decided to focus on the hood latch. My oe one was a rusty mess so I sourced a German aftermarket one from Poland.


    Years back I modded the oe one to release through the grille like the early rabbits. The job I did on it sucked so I fixed that up last night and mated it to the new latch.





    Its basically just a tab welded to the release where normally the cable would hook to. I cut off anything associated with the cable and drilled a new hole for the spring.
    Also added nutserts for mounting the base to the core support.





    Naturally the safety catch hook hit the heat exchanger, which I knew would be close. Luckily it was just low enough a small clearance through the top plate gave it enough room. I also trimmed the catch a tiny bit for added clearance (not shown in the second pic)








    Then I pulled it all apart so it will be ready for nickel plating.





    Dan

  5. #630
    Sr. User maxwell's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    2,062
    Mentioned
    40 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    man oh man the attention to *cough OCD cough* detail here is amazing.
    MAXWELL
    BLAOWW!!

  6. #631
    Sr. User juicedz4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    near Rochester
    Posts
    2,093
    Mentioned
    7 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    I def have a problem

    EDIT: I didnt show it, but I was sure to buff out any shear marks in the edges of the latch pieces and rounded over all the edges so one side wasnt sharper than the other from when it was stamped.
    Last edited by juicedz4; 02-02-2018 at 02:48 PM.

  7. #632
    Sr. User juicedz4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    near Rochester
    Posts
    2,093
    Mentioned
    7 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Primed the inside of the trunk. Its now ready for seam sealer.



    Pass fender stripped. Didnt find any other surprises so I decided to fix the previously hacked repair on the front corner.



    With the rest of the 1/8" of mud ground off it was a huge mess. The backside was quite rusty as well. Stupid dent pullers. You can see some leftovers of the one stud, top left of the damaged area. The top of the fender behind the damage was also pushed up quite a bit so I hammered that flat using a poster board template of the drivers fender.



    Cut out the old repair



    Hammered a replacement piece to shape.



    Welded it in place and sanded it out.





    Last night I shaved the marker light holes and got it glassed in. Its not a great shot of it, but you can see just how little filler the front repair I made needed. A little better than the original repair.



    Dan
    Last edited by juicedz4; 02-05-2018 at 04:37 PM.

  8. #633
    Sr. User juicedz4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    near Rochester
    Posts
    2,093
    Mentioned
    7 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Took a break from sanding and started on the catch can.

    Naturally I couldnt just make a square box. I wanted the one corner to be rounded.


    Bent up some 0.090" to a 1.5" radius on our little Baleigh brake at work.





    Then cut and fit all the other pieces and got most of it tacked up. Im still waiting on the top panel that a guy I work with is cutting on his cnc for me. Should have that tomorrow.


    Ill try to explain how this is going to work. The large oem vent in the block is going to attach to a tube in the chamber with the rounded corner. The air will travel up over the first wall, under the second, over the third, and then there will be an opening in the bottom of the front most chamber. The whole thing will be filled with ss wool to capture the vapors. The bottom is angled to funnel the captured oil where there will be a drain. Its hard to see but the first interior wall is flat at the bottom allowing oil to go under it but most of the air to be directed over it. The third interior wall follows the contour of the bottom panel so I can seal it to hold the oil within the first three chambers. Phew. It should make more sense as it comes together.



















    Dan

  9. #634
    Sr. User juicedz4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    near Rochester
    Posts
    2,093
    Mentioned
    7 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Realized wed am that I welded the damn mounting flange of the tank on upside down. UGH. Last night I cut all the tacks off, cleaned up the panels and flipped it over the right way. Took about an hour, so not SO bad.





    Then added a bung for the drain and the inlet tube and welded it all up.








    Welded a piece of rectangle tube to the side of the HX to attach the tank to. The tab out the side should make sense now.





    Up next was the drain. The drain will double as a secondary mount for the tank, I still need to weld on a mounting tab that will bolt to the frame rail. That groove in the frame rail was meant to be there I guess. It took me a while to get the bends right for the drain. I also had to trim the tube sleeves so Id have enough room for the flare tool dies but I think it worked out pretty slick.








    The inlet tube is 1.25" to match the oe breather on the block, and is angled to go under the upper radiator hose. Ill connect the two with a 1.25" silicone 90.





    Drain will get a male plug.








    I now have the top plate back from my CNC buddy so I should be able to get that welded on this afternoon.


    Dan

  10. #635
    Sr. User maxwell's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    2,062
    Mentioned
    40 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    MAXWELL
    BLAOWW!!

  11. #636
    Sr. User juicedz4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    near Rochester
    Posts
    2,093
    Mentioned
    7 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Catch can lid welded on (note groove for sealing o-ring), output slot cut in the bottom, and a mounting tab for the drain line welded on.


    I also tweaked the drain line spacing to the frame rail for all you that were super concerned.




















    Will drill the frame once the motor is out next time.





    Next I need to decide if/how Im going to fit a breather line or two to the valve cover.


    Dan

  12. #637
    Sr. User juicedz4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    near Rochester
    Posts
    2,093
    Mentioned
    7 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Silicone 90 for the crank case vent trimmed and in place. Itll sit straighter once clamped (not that youll ever see it again).





    Ive been hating the fuel press regulator cup on the end of the fuel rail for a while now. The original plan was it would be simple, "cheap", and require less fittings. But now it just annoys me and I feel that Id prefer to have some control over fuel pressure if needed.


    So last night I hacked the cup off and welded a -6 fitting on. Its so much cleaner. Im going to mount the small Fuel Lab FPR under the fram rail. Sure it wont be the easiest to access but it should be a set it and forget it deal.


    Before



    After








    Dan

Page 26 of 26 FirstFirst ... 1623242526